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Rihanna, Doja Kat, Madonna love his clothes: Sensen Li, a Chinese fashion designer, works with Alien Look, Beats by Dre and is a fan of Britney Spears

It was a performance with a capital P. And to say it played in the room is an understatement; At times, it was difficult to tell the models from the guests.

A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen
The brand’s Kill Angels collection for Autumn/Winter 2024 has echoes of costumes. A Kevin Costner movie Waterworld. Delivery and attitude were emphasized; This was more about futuristic concept and grandeur than pushing design into new territory. The look was performed with passionate energy.
Y2K-inspired, day-glo clothing – think tiny gym skirts, chain mail, cropped fur coats, pixelated prints, horned tops and caged bras – is an acquired taste; Plenty of skin was on display. The collection was modeled by a cast of fictional characters – Aliens, to be exact. Li is all alien, “from the inside out”, he says.
Sensen Li divides his time between Paris and Shanghai. Photo: Windowsen

The world of Chinese designers is all about fetishes, fantasy and experimentation. The final look of the show was a hot pink padded suit – the ultimate space armour, and worn by our Master of Ceremonies on the night.

The models wore crystal-embellished headphones (a snazzy collaboration with Beats by Dre, no less). The crossover with the Apple-owned company shows that the avant-garde is more than meets the eye for Li.

Li, who founded Windowsen in 2019, is proud to be the first Chinese designer to work with Beats by Dre, saying it’s something he “never imagined”.

“I think creativity is our common language,” he says. Being Chinese is only part of it – their work is usually not based on their heritage.

Windowsen x Beats by Dre Headphones. Photo: Windowsen
Beyond the show’s grandeur, it was this collaboration — and the shoes — that stood out for Paris-based stylist Daliah Spiegel, who works with Balenciaga and Simon Lee.

“To me, these chunky glitter over-ear beats encapsulate the joy of using music in public spaces and creating your own world,” she tells the Post.

“I hope I find them here in the subway soon,” she adds.

Windowsen x Beats by Dre Headphones. Li is the first Chinese designer to collaborate with an Apple-owned company. Photo: Windowsen

Like a growing number of his contemporaries, Li splits his time between Paris and Shanghai, moving to the European fashion capital in January 2024 to supercharge his two fashion lines: ready-to-wear and couture.

“I just got my apartment. I checked over 12 different places. Everything moves very slowly here compared to China,” he laughs.

Lee’s average day is, by his own admission, chaotic. His first task when he wakes up is to “answer all phone messages”, then it starts right off as he researches and gets stuck into the collection of the future.

A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

This season she has been incredibly busy meeting buyers and press. And there are plenty on the way as his star rises.

Windowsen is definitely not your average Chinese fashion label. Li’s aesthetic is outside the box when not only compared to Chinese contemporaries – Fellow designers Didu and Rui were seen in the crowd – but from elsewhere.

The label’s looks have caught the eye of celebrities including Rihanna, Doja Kate and Madonna.

A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen
Y2K culture is a major motivation for Li, who cited it as the driving force behind the collection. “I love Britney Spears, Paris Hilton and icons like them because I’m a 2000s kid. My couture designs are more inspired by movies, especially Matrix,” he says.

Spiegel admires Li’s free-thinking and collaborative creative mind. “There is this fearless embrace of sensen and its Chinese contemporary context. It makes me feel like I’m floating in this endless camera scroll of the phone or the (Instagram-like) Xiaohongshu page,” she says.

A quick scan of Chinese social media shows the brand’s growing popularity in China: the hashtag #windowsen has nearly 92 million views on the microblogging platform. Weibo.
A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

According to Bohan Qiu, founder of creative, PR and brand consultancy Boh Project, Windowsen’s presentation of Chinese fashion is due to his ability to merge elements from the many subcultures that a contemporary Chinese person experiences.

“From drag culture, queer culture and anime to cyberpunk underground music, post-internet, pop culture, Sensen can always bring together its true community from around the world, not just limited to China. And I think that’s (why) his brand really appeals to a global audience,” says Qiu.

“I wouldn’t call (my vision) outrageous,” says Lee. “But I have a bigger concept. It’s more like I’m developing this Windows universe. (This showcase) is more like ‘Shakespeare X’ kill the bill‘ The narrative for me, which is very unique and I’ve taken elements that I think should be in this universe.

A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

For those brave enough to take the plunge, it’s an exciting one and open to everyone: diversity is a big brand pillar for Li.

Windowsen puts out open casting calls for models on social media, which is pretty unexpected for an average fashion week show.

“When we do that we get thousands of bios and we’re so grateful. We welcome anyone who is in sync with our style,” he says.

A look through the windows at the Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

Looking ahead, Lee says: “I think now that I’m here, I need a reboot like a robot. Shanghai has inspired me a lot in the last three years but now that I’m here, I need to move forward with these new ideas.

The first is getting up to date with his self-proclaimed “messy” flat. He is in the process of sending his collection to Paris.

“You think there is nothing not Challenging in this city?” he asks, tongue in cheek. It’s certainly nothing a daring designer can’t handle.

(TagsToTranslate)Sensen Lii

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