The reinvention of women’s lingerie after the pandemic

The covid cast a veil over intimacy, the MeToo movement scrutinized all the excesses, but with the end of the pandemic, women’s lingerie is making a comeback.

Pop star Rihanna dropped an ad during the Dior runway show in Paris in the dead of winter, wearing pregnancy and a sheer nightgown over a black string.

Actress Megan Fox rocked a white string under a see-through Mugler dress at the MTV Awards.

The International Lingerie Show in Paris closed on Monday with a barrage of parades that not only showed sculptural bodies, but also models with a variety of sizes, a trend that had been gradually imposing itself in advertising.

– Out of the mask, I go to the string –

Lingerie as an outer garment, for exhibition, returns with force, after two years of masks, gloves and contact allergies.

“It is a trend that we are seeing enormously in pop culture. Rihanna, Cardi B, Kim Kardashian have taken over these codes in a very extroverted way and with a true feminist dimension,” Renaud Cambuzat, director of creation and image, explains to AFP. from the French brand Chantelle.

Instagram is the window to this “sexy unapologetic” movement, which is being adopted “in a personal way by the younger generations and middle-aged people. I see it in the schools where I teach,” Jacqueline Quinn, creator and teacher, told AFP. from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

The well-known brand Victoria’s Secret has already put aside its slogan “A perfect body” and now exhibits a greater diversity of models, with different ages, sizes and looks, such as the American soccer player Megan Rapinoe, a symbol of the LGBT community.

“Four or five years ago we were in the middle of #MeToo, there was a desire to flee towards something that was perceived as more respectful. The #MeToo fight has not been completely won, but it has opened up new perspectives. There are women and brands that have legitimacy” for propose a return to ultra-sexy lingerie, says Renaud Cambuzat.

“Do not confuse #MeToo with puritanism. A woman may wish to seduce, of her own free will,” Samar Vignals, of the Aubade firm, told AFP.

From his well-known black and white advertisements, with suggestive panties and plunging necklines, Aubade has gone on to show models who look directly at the camera and propose “a frank seduction”.

After “the need for comfort” due to the pandemic, Aubade’s clients are now asking for “more audacity”, says this creator.

“The string or thong is our best sale,” says Samar Vignals.

– Wild sexuality, but not so much –

“We are witnessing the return of the unbridled sexuality of the 2000s, to codes that refer to the archetype of the woman object but that no longer have the same meaning (…). It is not about a demand for seduction but rather it consists in reappropriating in a feminist way of sexualized clothing”, explains Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the French Institute of Fashion.

It is about “dedramatizing seduction”, explains Aline Tran, founder of an erotic lingerie store in Paris.

“Now there is much more talk about accepting your body (…) Seduction is a super-feminist asset, within the tendency to regain control of your body,” he explains.


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