When neuroscience revolutionizes the world of cosmetics

Glowing complexion when you’re in love, pimples that bloom when stressed… We know the links between skin and brain for many moons, which have the same embryonic origin. They are also constantly caused by hormones or chemical molecules, including neurotransmitters. “When we apply the cream, 70 million nerves are activated and 10,000 trillion connections are processed in 600 milliseconds,” declares Chanel Laboratories, which tests the sensory signature of 500 formulas in a single day.

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Our emotions under the microscope

It was in the 1990s, thanks to work on sensitive skin, that we began to explore the nervous system of the skin. In 2024, neuroscience and AI are there and, slowly, we understand them better. “It has become common to refer to emotions and well-being in the cosmetic field, but it’s one thing to say it, it’s another to show it,” notes Arnaud Obert, teacher-researcher of neuroscience and psychophysiology at the University of Tours. work Cosmetics, Perfumes and Emotions: The Contribution of Neuroscience * These 200 well-documented pages clearly show that studying and measuring emotions is not that simple.

It is also an ultra-complex phenomenon, involving cognitive, physiological, behavioral dimensions… requiring specific tools and protocols to obtain reliable results. Joy, sadness, fear, surprise… In laboratories, all our emotions are unraveled with tools worthy of detecting lies: electroencephalograms, thermal cameras, functional magnetic resonance imaging… Sensory analysis labs are no longer easily satisfied. Questionnaire We study heart rate, temperature and skin conductance, blood pressure, respiratory amplitude, posture, pupil diameter.

l’Eye tracking Analyzes eye movements as indicators of attention. We measure the intensity, tone and rhythm of the voice, we take hormonal and saliva doses, we also record facial expressions and slight changes in the color of the epidermis. Thus, before its launch, the regularity of the No. 1 series of Chanel was tested using neuroscientific measurements, and the luxury house has a keen interest in DPW technology, thanks to the electrodes placed on the skull, which allow emotions to be visualized in real time.

Sensory balance

“Since 1984, Shiseido has developed protocols to assess the effect of perfumes on the nervous, immune and endocrine systems,” recalls Nathalie Broussard, head of scientific communications. Today, it has been proven that composition can activate areas of the brain associated with pleasure, the reward system, and attachment. We observed similarities between neuronal activity during the use of cosmetics and during different stages of a romantic relationship. From love at first sight to marriage, we love our cult products like our better halves.

Seven years of research and more than 3,000 hours of sleep analysis were required for perfume company Givaudan to develop the new Rijuvanic Gold Multistrate Regenerating Night Balm fragrance by Carita. This patented trail, tested with Loughborough University, provides more peaceful nights, and the melt-in texture also has calming properties. A similar approach in sesame, whose main active ingredient, lime, works on both the skin and the mind. In addition to the product’s effects on brightness, the perfume, created by perfumer Francis Kurkadjian, was the subject of a protocol developed by Arnaud Obert’s neuroscientific laboratory. As a reward, an immediate and lasting state of satisfaction and comfort.

Today, the beauty planet has moved to the next stage, that of bio-active neurocosmetic ingredients, capable of improving the appearance of the skin while providing emotional benefits and making the perception of our appearance positive. A phenomenon that is not to everyone’s taste: “Some manufacturers claim or suggest that the use of their products on the skin can have a direct effect on the nervous system and brain, therefore on mentality and ‘mood’. If this were the case, the product should be withdrawn from the market immediately to avoid any risk of dependence,” warns the psychodermatology group of the French Society of Dermatology. Well, some brands undoubtedly exaggerate the psychological benefits of their creams, but we are yet to see the beauty. Not seen under the influence of cosmetics or addicted to eau de toilette. Or, we should first ban tobacco, wine, chocolate and smartphones.

Effect of soul skin

“The skin has neurons, eyes, nostrils and maybe even ears,” affirms Sisley’s research director, José Ginestar, who launched the first holistic skincare brand Neuraé, based on the prism of neuroscience and emotions, after ten years of research. On the wellness menu, neuro-ingredients, neurofragrances and neurotextures. “We act on cells, skin and mind at the same time,” explains its project manager. how ? Through neurotransmitters, which form the skin-brain language. We targeted positives, such as endorphins, which create euphoria and reduce inflammation, and GABA, a relaxation agent that reduces anxiety and promotes healing. We were also interested in the negative ones, such as cortisol, a stress hormone that weakens and sensitizes the skin barrier, and CGRP, which causes inflammation and increases pain sensation. Then, we identified patented phyto-active ingredients capable of promoting positive messages and suppressing negative ones.”

The four perfumes were created according to the principles of olfactotherapy and the textures were created with the help of neuroscience. Finally, three routines with the patented Common Serum that restores harmony, a Joy Emulsion that invigorates and brightens, a Serenity Balm that soothes and smoothes, an Energy Cream that rejuvenates mind and skin. SOS for everyone with emotion booster roll-on. “Results can be seen and felt,” explains Jose Ginestar. And they far exceeded our expectations. Not only were the hypotheses validated, but we verified that the communication between the skin and the brain, which weakens with age and stress, improved. And, of course, everything is as natural and sustainable as possible, as it should be today. Even the planet needs well-being.

* Compiled by Patrice Bellon, Ed. Cosmetic Valley, 2021.