Stay Alive From the Labs, New Strategies for Better Aging

“There is only one age: alive,” said Agnes Varda. However, millions of living women over 50 are slowly falling into a world of silence and donning the mantle of the invisible woman. Some headliners who loudly claim the right to go gray, how many others run from the mirrors or try to cross them. In your head, you feel young, even eternally adolescent. Why don’t the body and skin follow? Accept your age, a little, a lot, a lot, not at all… it’s up to each person to decide. But for those who want to mature without rushing, beauty experts are never short of arguments.

Cosmetics: Straight from the labs

Epigenetics, stem cells, sirtuins, peptides, proteome, neuroscience, exposome… After the pandemic, cellular longevity has never been so discussed. There is also the matter of reversing with time signals Reverse Aging. Against wrinkles, each brand plows its own furrow. We followed a few…

Orchids and peptide molecules

Be careful, sensitive matter. The topic published by Guerlain excited the scientific community and the buzzosphere. Frédéric Bonte, Guerlain’s director of scientific communication, explains: “Until now, we have worked on cells and molecules,” he explains, “but molecules are made of atoms. We are now in the final frontier of the infinitesimal, quantum biology. It was discovered that cells spontaneously emit biophotons, components of light that transmit biological messages. It is not visible light, as it is more than 10,000 times below the sensitivity of the eye, but it can be measured by certain cameras. This is why we have worked with the University of Paleki in the Czech Republic, which is the only one with such accurate equipment. We found that young cells emit a regular photonic signal, and old cells emit a discontinuous signal, like a humming light. Which affects the entire functioning of the skin. Thanks to biotech extracts of orchid molecules and peptides, Gold Noble Technology corrects metabolic disturbances. What does it change? “A more complete and rapid action on signs of aging and skin radiance,” answers the expert.

Integral beauty

At Chanel, we’ve been studying skin aging since 2012. And the heart of the reactor is the Research and Development Innovation Center in Pantin, near Paris, where it all began, as Gabrielle Chanel created its first products there in 1924. Since then, things have changed a lot, but it is also a woman, Nathalie Volpe, Doctor of Science in Analytical Chemistry, who runs this futuristic center of global beauty. “We consider biological, clinical, biochemical, neuroscientific, sociological, epidemiological, cultural data, etc., to create what Chanel calls unified beauty,” she explains. More than three hundred researchers and artisans, spread across five sites around the world, work in partnership with universities and start-ups in all sectors.”

The brand has also set up five open-air laboratories to create tailor-made active ingredients such as exquisite plant sector, camellia or polyfractionated vanilla planifolia, the star of the Sublimage line. In the new L’Extrait de Nuit formula, it welcomes the Himalayan swartia flower from Bhutan, endowed with extraordinary restorative powers. Chanel also works on increasingly complex models of reconstructed human skin. “For the first time, we were able to 3D bio-print skin with spots, which allowed us to proceed with depigmenting active ingredients,” continued Nathalie Volpe. Laboratories are also developing mycorrhization, a combination of fungi that helps promote camellia cultivation in Goujak (Landes) while regenerating the soil. Today, science without conscience is just the ruin of glam.

Longevity Protein

“Since the year 2000, we have never seen so many scientific publications on sirtuins, these famous longevity proteins, not only for skin, but also for Alzheimer’s disease or degenerative diseases,” notes D.^d Nadine Pernodet, Lauder vice president of research, who has worked on this topic for sixteen years. Sirtuins are present in all cells of the body and have essential roles. They help them generate energy, protect telomeres, fight inflammation and promote longevity. They have numerous interactions with hundreds of biological mechanisms linked to general health. Moreover, sirtuins levels are higher in people who age well. In the skin, there are seven sirtuins that function at different levels in the cell. If we keep them healthy, the skin acts like young skin for a long time. We can even reverse its apparent age.” The new generation of Re-Nutrive Cream works on Sirtuins 1, 2, 3 and 6 with exclusive and patented technology for a 14-day effect.

Plant retinol

It is the active ingredient of the anti aging star. A safe bet with proven effectiveness on wrinkles, firmness and radiance, but not always very well tolerated. Its exfoliating effect can cause irritation and make the skin sensitive to the sun. There are already natural alternatives such as bacuchiol, wild rose bush or pelargonium oil, but Nux announced that he has found something better: a trio of ingredients that surpass the action of retinol without its drawbacks. This patented technology combines hyaluronic acid from biofermentation, organic alfalfa extract and daylily extract. It is suitable for all skin types and does not require UV protection. It is found in the new Nuxurance Ultra range, eight face and body treatments for mature skin. With Nuxe sensory signature. And, to prove the brand’s focus on transparency and authenticity, the model in the ad campaign, Daniela, 47, is unretouched.

With or without supplements?

Capsules, gummies, powders, sticks…, everyone chews or snorts them, and it’s impossible to find your way around. However, it looks like we need some help. Cyril Tellinge, founder of NovExpert, who calls himself “faded with micronutrients for twenty-five years,” reminds us that the modern diet, even varied, balanced, no longer covers our needs. For example, 78% of French people are deficient in magnesium. But it is not so easy because with fashion inside out, We see everything, the worst and the best. For our expert, who has never kept his tongue in his pocket, it is a very easy business to execute. You just have to buy powdered plant extracts that aren’t always well regulated, and put them together when too many active ingredients interfere with each other. The matter was closed within two months. The same cannot be said of the range of four NovExpert food supplements for skin and hair that it has just launched. It took two and a half years to develop and blacklisted six hundred authentic ingredients to avoid pesticides, heavy metals and plant toxins.

For example, spirulina is high in arsenic. Everything is designed, formulated, manufactured and packaged in France, all hyperconcentrated formulas are clinically tested, contain bioavailable active ingredients and titrated plant extracts. “There aren’t any amazing active ingredients, but they’re all super quality, without forgetting to remember that micronutrients aren’t everything. It is a global and long-term approach,” recalls Cyril Tellinge. He has a very specific diet. Enjoy its antioxidants? Arabica coffee (without pods) to which he adds a pinch of green tea, and flavored with a square of Valhona dark chocolate (which contains the least lead). And never before 11 am and never after 3 pm. Not too hot with water. Its healthy superfood? Fermented pomegranate juice.

Should you take collagen?

Here too, it’s a big fad and we dig ourselves to beautify our skin and remove rust from our joints. It is true that this protein naturally present throughout the body, including muscles and skin, declines after the age of 25. As naturopathic chef Angel Ferreux-Meght suggests, you can consume homemade bone or fish bone broth every day, but there are sexier options. Naturopath Aurelie Canzoneri admits, “I was very skeptical, but I tested different brands at different doses and am convinced of its benefits under certain conditions. First, you should know that there is no such thing as vegan collagen. It is either marine or bovine.

Which is better? The discussion broke up. Vegetarians should choose plant-based active ingredients that stimulate collagen production. Second, to be absorbed, it must be fully hydrolyzed collagen or collagen peptides. Third, dosage. It should be greater than five grams, ideally ten grams, with a molecular weight of 2,000 daltons. Below, money is thrown from that window. So, read the compositions carefully and be patient for at least three months to see the results. Aurelie’s other friends? Daily Omega 3 and Vitamin C with therapeutic windows during the holidays.

Collagen treatments will be tested (among others) at Aime Skincare, Olivier Claire, Apnée Paris.