The time of children’s songs is long gone Miller, you are sleeping. Thanks for the Lightning Fairy, “We are like nuclear power, we run continuously and we can start and stop the mill at any time”, notes Guillaume Guénégo. Guenegos are small players compared to the leading trio of millers, French millers, Moulins Soufflet (Invivo), Grands Moulins de Paris (Vivecia) and Axion (Exerial) for five generations with production sites in Brittany, Orne and Sarthe.
There are about 384 mills in France today and the sector employs, according to the National Association of French Milling, about 6,100 people directly and 52,000 indirectly. Players big and small came out in force at Sirha Europan, the bakery, pastry and snack trade fair taking place in Paris from January 21 to 24. Today, the annual tonnage of flour delivered by millers in France is around 4 million, but the market has more capacity than demand.
The French eat less bread. Above all, the sector exports less flour to baguette-consuming countries, particularly Africa. “Many independent millers who have not modernized are still struggling today”observes François-Xavier Quarez, general manager of Episens, InVivo’s wheat division.
“A bit like winegrowers”
At the same time, demand has changed. “Artisan Bakers Want “People’s Wheat”. (local wheat)such as pollard, einkorn or red bordeaux wheat and a blend of flours to make special or signature breadsGuillaume Guénégo explains. We work a little like winegrowers. »
Large millers are becoming more and more active. At the origin of names such as “Label Rouge Baguette” or “Bennett 1900 Tradition” obtained with specific lots, they have significantly increased their services. “At Moulins Soufflet, we have adopted a new lot model and, on the services side, we offer support measures to artisans to set up or finance their equipment”Develops François-Xavier Querrez.
“Round bakeries” at the entrances or exits of towns, also aroused the desire of flour millers because of the quantity absorbed. “They are looking for products that are easy to work with and that provide consistency of taste across their network”, enlightens François-Xavier Querrez. At the forefront of this demand, large manufacturers capture between 25% and 30% of this growing market.
