When “alcohol-free” wins over Rhône Valley wine: “We are fully considering this subject”

At the mention of “alcohol-free wine”, the Côtes-du-Rhône region faces tension. “I am not opposed. But formally, we cannot call it wine“, breathes, confused, Laurent Mercier, wine merchant in Avignon, who sees, in mid-January, a new customer arrives, eager to try this special product.

“I am not able to answer that. For the moment, none of the winemakers I work with have launched into this market.“For him, the – emerging – offer is not reflected, at least for the moment, “Neither the organoleptic qualities of the wine, nor the complexity or identity of the terroirs“

In the Rhône Valley, abstinence is a dirty word among most winegrowers, wine merchants and oenologists. In mid-January, the “NoLo” trend (as in “no” and “low alcohol”, with no or less alcohol), which appeared across the channel about ten years ago, faced a dry January (without January). alcohol).

“By removing the alcohol, you deflash the wine and, along with it, remove the contents. We make ‘technological’ wines, highly processed, with the risk of standardization of taste, when, of course, we want to avoid this.

“In the world of wine, the wine merchant continues, which also insists on the transient dimension of this demand.”We are being asked for it in January. But in February, it will not interest many people.“

“Return to more reasonable levels”

Overcoming preconceived notions, the Rhonéa cooperative, vast in area with 2,900 hectares of vineyards (two-thirds of which are vintage and AOC villages), wants to believe in the emergence of this new market.

In early 2023, with a view to diversification, it invested in a deal alcoholization machine. And in the fall, its first vintage of Côtes-du-Rhône was released, partially de-alcoholized, at 11.5º.

“With global warming, degrees are increasing. We tend to wine at 16 or 16.5º. The idea of ​​this machine was first to reduce the sail to return to a more reasonable degree.“, recalls Alexis Vallet, Cellar Master at Rhonéa. With 11.5%, the rate allows the vintage to fit the specifications of the appellation (it authorizes a reduction of 2%, when remaining beyond 11º).

In 2024, Ronia is going further with experiments around two new ranges: one, at 6 or 7% alcohol, the other, at zero degrees. The product, which still needs to be refined, should be presented for the first time at the wine Paris trade show next month. Initial feedback will determine the marketing prospects for these two test vintages.

Innovative products, which cooperatives have been working on for several months. Given the small number of experiments – everything needs to be done in this area. “We go into the unknown

“, recognizes Alexis Valet. Especially since “At red wine, we touch the monuments of French gastronomy. This is a real challenge for us, as alcohol has the ability to round out wines. But the first results are promising.“

Co-op calls “NoLo” a trend.stronger and stronger” Between consumers – in the structural context of de-consumption, especially for red wine and especially for Côtes-du-Rhône.

“You have to take it step by step, and really demystify the process. The wine we use does not denature the wine.“The first experiments should be related to the wines of France for the 6th grade,”On Grenache-Syrah blends“, Sum, Merlot. With the name “A wine based drink” For zero degrees, as required by the rules.

Côtes-du-Rhône “In Deep Reflection”

If, in France, many brands are starting to invest in this alcohol-free niche (Petit Barret for example) – with a delay compared to our Anglo-Saxon neighbors -, the approach remains marginal in the Rhône Valley. Apart from the Rhonea cooperative, the Côtes-du-Rhône Union indicates that it is not aware of other experiments in this direction in its area of ​​activity.

However, “We are currently considering the subject of prohibition (first, to limit the degree). Our new president (elected in December, editor’s note) announced that it would be one of the avenues to explore in the future.“

As for the AOC Luberon Winegrowers Union, it is still too early. “The subject has not been taken up with the producers yet. Prohibition of alcohol will probably be tried. Why not for a few degrees. But the alcohol is the link to the terroir, it’s what creates the appellation“, replies the director, Nathalie Archambault.

although, “Judging by the number of calls I’ve had from colleagues since getting our machine, the idea is of interest to Vineyard“, confides Alexis Valet, whose production should resume these days. To find the right blend, between now and the Wine Paris Show in February.