How to fight against the trio “I buy, I put, I throw away”?

I buy, put, throw away. This short cycle that has become established in our clothing habits is called: “fast fashion”. The area targeted by a bill was discussed in the committee of the Assembly this Thursday, also in the venues of environmental organizations and the Stop Fast Fashion Collective, which brings together NGOs such as Emmaus, France Nature Environment, Les Amis de la Terre and Zero Waste. France.

But what exactly is “fast fashion”? Why is this bad? And how do we move towards more sustainable fashion? 20 minutes Takes stock with Pauline Debrabander, campaign coordinator at Zero Waste France.

What exactly is “fast fashion”?

The definition of the term is “the whole point of the proposed law”, as Pauline Debrabander immediately suggests. At the heart of the text is a proposal for 1,000 new models per day, a measure maintained by the Horizons Group and MP Anne-Cécile Violand. “We are only touching the tip of the iceberg, ultra ‘fast fashion'”, denounces Pauline Debrabender, who insists that the text does not target “the global volume of clothes put on the market”, which are often thrown away after a few uses.

So, if MPs openly target Temu or Shane, which has 7,200 new items on the site every day, other “fast fashion” brands such as Zara, H&M, Kiabi and Primark go under the radar. However, these brands are also “differentiated by constant renewal of collections and marketing arguments”, such as very regular discounts. Of these players who have been in place for a long time, the Chinese platform has simply “reproduced the same practices but in a more outrageous manner”. much faster.

Why is “fast fashion” so bad?

Today, according to UNEP, the textile industry represents about 10% of greenhouse gas emissions worldwide. A significant proportion, therefore, is increasing with the development of “fast fashion”. “Adame estimates that textiles could represent 26% of carbon emissions in 2050,” warns Pauline Debrabander. She explains that the frenzied creation of new models “inspires overproduction and overconsumption” of short-lived clothes.

Because being so cheap (you can find a t-shirt on Shane for 1.50 euros), these clothes are “of poor quality, often made of polyester and therefore plastic”. In France, “only 1% of clothing is recycled, the rest ends up in open landfills or incinerators,” laments the campaign coordinator. But the damage is present well before the end of the garment’s short life.

Still at the environmental level, the textile industry uses a lot of water and pollutes. Additionally, platforms like Sheen and Temu are based on sending clothes directly to the buyer. “Fast fashion” thus represents “a third of air transport of goods and 50% of exports from China”, explains Pauline Debrabander. She also cites “working conditions that violate human rights” in developing countries and the “destruction of jobs with relocation to France and the decline of mid-range brands” such as Pimki, Kaporal, Kukai, Cameune, etc.

So, what do Horizons MPs propose?

In addition to criticizing the model, Horizons deputies have proposed two concrete measures to push back Shen or Temu. First by applying a “penalty” such as an “ecological penalty” to the automobile industry, capped at 50% of the sales price, by 2030, to avoid imposing this tax solely on the consumer. , the text plans to adapt the share of the eco-contribution, which is paid by the company according to its environmental impact.

To know more about ethical fashion

Another part of the law deals with advertising, which will be restricted to brands that fit the criteria of “fast fashion”. “It’s a political initiative that we’ve been waiting for a long time,” rejoices Pauline Debrabandere, even if “it’s not enough.” “Sustainable and ethical fashion exists,” she asserts, proposing to set “bonuses” for “local and low-carbon production.” One challenge of this battle remains: consumer education. Because even though they “cost more to produce”, these clothes are durable… over time. A change in behavior that wins at all levels.