The Anatomy Of Supermakeup: The Most Wanted Makeup Secrets On The Market | beauty

Learn how to do high-performance makeup – Photo: Getty Images

Makeup mesmerizes because it transforms. And, with each passing season, the formula’s superpowers get more powerful, based on a lot of science and technology. We delve deep into the composition of those products to discover the magic of each one that delivers the most amazing benefits. And see a selection of high-performance makeup.

pigmentation beyond reach

1. Soft Pinch Liquid Blush, Faith, Rare Beauty, R$ 159 2. Blush Cloud Crush Pinker Times Ahead, Golden Hour, Too Faced, R$ 249 3. Kissshadow Bronze Nudes Eyeshadow Palette, Kylie Jenner, R$ 369 stills diego gaotti

One layer, one brushstroke and…wow! The most valuable advantage of today’s makeup is the intensity of color. For this reason, techniques to enhance pigments made from materials such as mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxides and synthetic dyes to their maximum strength are becoming increasingly sophisticated. “Generally, eyeshadows with a higher concentration of color pigments than other ingredients in the formula, such as fillers or binders, are the most pigmented,” says Mariana Lopes Simós, pharmaceutical expert and advisor on regulatory affairs at Uni Makeup. But it’s not that simple: The quality of the pigment also plays an important role in the finish. “There are so-called coated pigments, which when viewed under a microscope are inside a kind of bubble. They ‘explode’ in the sandwich between the brush and the skin. Thus, the product is more comfortable to use and gives a better finish”, says Gustavo Diament, director of research and development at Grupo Botticario. However, it’s hard to see it on a product label. “Cream or gel-based eyeshadows provide more intense color results and can be applied more densely,” says Mariana Lopes Simós.

color correction

1. Le Tint Terracotta Foundation, Guerlain, R$349 2. Vaso Tinted Moisturizer, Shiseido, R$329 3. Forever Velvet Veil Primer, Dior, R$329 Photo: Stills Diego Gaotti

Shiseido’s Vaso line consists of a moisturizer whose color adapts to the skin of the person applying it. Initially it looks white, but as it spreads, it changes colour. “It’s a pigment we call transition, because each company gives it a different name”, says Amanda Coelho, COO of Belong Bee, a platform that brings together independent beauty brands, and CMO of Alma Cosmeticos. It is a discreet pigment, with an encapsulated microsphere that is broken down by friction and heat of the hands. In addition to moisturizers, there are also baselines on the market that use the same technology, but in products with different skin tones. “These capsules contain red, yellow, and blue pigments, which help the foundation adapt to the skin tone,” explains Daniel DeMata, makeup development expert and consultant for brands like MAC and Avon. “This type of product uses a technology that neutralizes blemishes using complementary colors,” says Mariana Lopes Simós of Uni Makeup. Green pigments counteract redness, and yellow and peach hues brighten dull skin and reduce the appearance of dark circles.

comfortable mats

1. Icon Liquid Lipstick, The MVP, Fenty Beauty, R$185 2. Everlasting Liquid Lipstick, Queen of Poison, KVD, R$155 3. Lip Matte Nude 32, Latika, R$25.90 Photo: Stills Diego Gaotti

Matte textures are popular in makeup today, especially when it comes to very colorful results. It makes the color happen, does not flow and does not transfer. But the discomfort of dry touch can affect the hydration of the lips. For a long time, opaque toned lips meant chapped lips, due to the mattifying powder in the formulation. But innovations came and this reality was left behind. “In the past, this type of makeup used to be dry and harsh. It does not mix well in formulations”, says Gustavo Diament, executive director of Grupo Botticario. Now, however, ingredients have been included that help maintain skin’s hydration, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin E, without interfering with the final effect. In addition, manufacturers have improved the balance in the ingredients that make up lipstick, focusing on comfort and dispersion.

customized mouth

1. Gloss Pumbling Squirt Hazard, MAC, R$159 2. Lip Injection Maximum Plump, Too Faced, R$153 3. Chocochilli Volume Gloss, Fran by Francine Ehlke, R$49 4. Lip Maximizer Addict, Dior, R$229 stills diego gaotti

Big mouths are a cyclical trend, and each season that gains prominence, the lip plumper trend comes into play. This type of gloss contains active ingredients that stimulate blood flow and increase local circulation, thereby increasing the size of the lips. There are many ways to achieve this effect, but the most common little secret is capsaicin, a chemical component present in chili peppers. “It has an almost allergenic effect when applied to the lips,” says Amanda Coelho, COO of Belong Bee. That is why we feel the burning sensation when we use lip plumper. “This ingredient is a vasodilator, which increases the vascularity in the area and causes redness and an increase in lip size,” she says. Menthol, which in turn gives a feeling of coolness, can also be used for the same purpose. According to Gustavo Diamant, one of the newest options with long-term healing effects is hyaluronic acid. “It takes longer to see the effect, about 40 to 60 days,” says Grupo Botticario’s executive director. The low molecular weight component penetrates the lips and fills the area.


1. Climax Mascara, NARS, R$189 2. BT Fiber Lashes, Bruna Tavares, R$62 3. Lash Clash, Yves Saint Laurent, R$239 Photo: Stills Diego Gaotti

The success of powerful, shiny, thick lashes depends on a combination of factors. According to experts, the final effect of a product depends 50% on the formulation and 50% on the packaging. “Thick applicator with fiber bristles gives lashes the full look of volume. The thin applicator with silicone bristles gives the effect of lengthening the lashes”, says Gustavo Diamant of Grupo Botticario. But some innovations in the products’ composition help guarantee dreamy lashes: Some volume mascaras, for example, contain nylon, cellulose or cotton fibers that melt into the hairs and give them a thicker look. “Lengening mascara, on the other hand, is more liquid and thin as it moves down to the tip of the lashes, leaving them well pigmented, voluminous and more spaced, giving the impression that they are longer.” “, says Amanda Coelho, COO of Ho.

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