There were Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid and Naomi Campbell: it is not the cast of a film and not even the beginning of the most classic of jokes, but the cast of all respect put together by Demna Gvasalia – for the friends simply ‘Denma’ – for the second Haute Couture show for Balenciaga, held yesterday in Paris.
The Fall / Winter 2022-23 collection has turned as usual into a media event, in which clothes have taken a back seat (well, not too much) compared to the stellar entourage put together by that genius Denma. Who this time wanted to mention the fashion shows in the atelier of the 50s, with elegant, rigid and staid models: you can try, on the other hand, to walk with ease on those uncomfortable shoes with a wide plant, or even to pass through the doors with that monumental wedding dress that at the end created many difficulties for the poor model, forced to stand on the side so as not to get stuck everywhere.
Kim dressed in black (a reference to the dress that totally covered her, sported at the Met 2021); Naomi as Maleficent / Queen of Darkness; Dua Lipa with mini-dress complete with canary yellow train; Beautiful in emerald green, icy as ever, if not more so; and finally Nicole wrapped in aluminum… er, wrapped in a train-tailed silver dress. All black-gloved, all very slow, all very serious like supreme priestesses of some kind of fashion cult.
In short, Denma’s umpteenth shot, a show that only he can set up: pharaonic, experimental, surprising, at times intelligible and vaguely disturbing. Chapeau, monsieur Gvasalia.