- Lingerie as an outer garment, for exhibition, returns with force, after 2 years of face masks, gloves and contact allergies.
- After the need for comfort due to the pandemic, Aubade’s clients are now asking for “more daring”.
- Wearing a thong is about feminist reappropriation of a generally sexualized clothing.
Covid-19 focused attention on intimacy; the MeToo movement scrutinized all the excesses, and the end of the pandemic caused women’s lingerie to come back with a bang.
Rihanna appeared during the Dior catwalk in Paris. She was wearing a pregnancy and a transparent nightgown over a black thong, in the middle of winter.
Megan Fox rocked a white thong under a see-through Mugler dress at the MTV Awards.
The International Lingerie Salon in Paris closed on Monday with a flurry of fashion shows showcasing statuesque bodies and models in a variety of sizes. This trend had already been imposing itself little by little in advertising.
Out with the mask, welcome the thong
Lingerie as an outer garment, for exhibition, returns with force, after 2 years of face masks, gloves and contact allergies.
“It’s a trend that we’re seeing hugely in pop culture. Rihanna, Cardi B, Kim Kardashian have taken over these codes in a very extroverted way and with a true feminist dimension,” Renaud Cambuzat, director of creation and image of the French brand Chantelle, explains to AFP.
Instagram is the window into this “sexy unapologetic” movement, which is being embraced “in a personal way by younger generations and middle-aged people. I see it in the schools where I teach,” Jacqueline Quinn, creator and professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, told AFP.
Victoria’s Secret has already monopolized a slogan “A perfect body” and now exposes a greater diversity of models, with different ages, sizes and looks, such as the American soccer player Megan Rapinoe, a symbol of the LGBT community.
«4 or 5 years ago we were in the middle of #MeToo, there was a desire to flee towards something that was perceived as more respectful. The #MeToo fight has not been completely won, but it has opened up new perspectives. There are women and brands that have legitimacy” to propose a return to ultra-sexy lingerie, says Renaud Cambuzat.
“Do not confuse #MeToo with puritanism. A woman may wish to seduce, of her own free will »said she to AFP Samar Vignals, of the firm Aubade.
From his well-known black and white advertisements, with suggestive panties and plunging necklines, Aubade has gone on to show models who look directly at the camera and propose “a frank seduction”.
After “the need for comfort” due to the pandemic, Aubade’s clients are now asking for “more audacity”, says this creator.
“The string or thong is our best sale,” says Samar Vignals.
Unbridled sexuality, but not so much
«We are witnessing the return of the unrestrained sexuality of the 2000s, to codes that refer to the archetype of the female object but that no longer have the same meaning (…). It is not a demand for seduction, but rather it consists of reappropriating sexualized clothing in a feminist way, ”explains Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the French Institute of Fashion.
It is about “dedramatizing seduction”, explains Aline Tran, founder of an erotic lingerie store in Paris.
“Now there is much more talk about accepting your body (…) Seduction is a super-feminist asset, within the trend of regaining control of your body,” he explains.