this is how it is and this is how the new man dresses in the 21st century

The year that begins will lower the man from the pedestal, at least as far as style, clothing and appearance are concerned, a new man, less macho and more ductile, less corseted and more open; to understand each other, less George Clooney and more Timothée Chalamet. Or that is what will be seen at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which dedicates what is considered its great exhibition of 2022 to how fashion has created man and vice versa. Fashioning masculinities: the art of Manswestripping the masculine bare and then dressing it, in a literal sense that makes you want to cut off the sleeves of the omicron and catch a flight to London on February 12, which is when it opens. If you can’t do it, here we tell you.

liquids and fluids

The Victoria and Albert ‘undresses’ the man to show that he can dress in a much freer way than the dour nineteenth-century gentleman who still reigns

The liquidity of the times and the lack of liquidity of the museums after and still in the midst of the ravages of the pandemic have made them turn their eyes to the blockbusters insurance, and fashion is always a winning bet, even more so when they adjust to what society, or a well-communicated part of it, demands. To begin with, at the V&A they will strip the male sex of the weight of their mental clothing, because that is how the show begins, which although it does not say so, has a clear message: men have not always dressed as men.

Omar Victor Diop as Jean-Baptiste Belley

Omar Victor Diop as Jean-Baptiste Belley

Victoria and Albert Museum

And what is meant by dressing as a man? Well, the western attire, the boring suit and tie now questioned, at least at the Oscars ceremony, which is not that many suits like Colman Domingo’s bright pink Versace are seen on the street; by the way, Versace will also be recovered in a sample this year. The man who will parade, so to speak, at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum from March 19, is an evolved man: from the idealized bodies of Apollo and Hermes to the no less idealized bodies of Hollywood.

Gaultier, the terrible

From the sculptural dresses of ‘Kika’ to the futurism of ‘The Fifth Element’ passing through Madonna’s corsets

Because what has changed is the way of dressing, and to show a button. The Senegalese photographer Omar Victor Diop took a self-portrait a few years ago wearing the same outfit as that worn by Jean-Baptiste Belley when he was painted towards the end of the 18th century by a disciple of Jean-Louis David; Belley, an ex-slave also from Senegal, had already become France’s first black deputy, a senior figure, luxuriously dressed… in an elegant combination of dark frock coat, pale trousers, and abundant foulards. Did anyone ever think of going dressed like that to the Congress of Deputies?

Because while women’s fashion has maintained its freedom (within an order), creativity and color over the centuries, men’s fashion remained anchored in the austere nineteenth-century gentleman whose lack of smile matched the somber suit. But we live in a moment of absolute male liberation, at least on the catwalks, genders are becoming liquid, male clothing is becoming “more honest”, in the words of the V&A curators and whatever that means and London is always a party, Boris Johnson is there to remember him, and the exhibition is sure to be worth a visit.

Exhibition curated by Gaultier on cinema and fashion

Exhibition curated by Gaultier on cinema and fashion

Cinemateque Paris

Precisely two of the champions of fluidity in clothing, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Alber Elbaz, star in two exhibitions this winter. We know about Gaultier that he likes movies and that he dared with the male skirt before anyone else, except in Scotland, of course. Coming from the Cinématèque in Paris, where it ended this weekend, it will arrive at the Caixaforum in Madrid on February 17 Cinema and fashion. By Jean-Paul Gaultier, in which the couturier, put in cinema mode, will offer his particular vision of the symbiosis between both arts or crafts, as measured, through an equally personal selection of films, posters, photographs…

… and fashion, lots of fashion, from Madonna’s stage corsets to the sculptural dresses that Victoria Abril dared to wear for the Almodovian Kika or the 954 suits that Gaultier designed for The fifth element by Luc Besson (not all of them are in the show, of course), or his reinterpretation of classicism in The cook, the thief, his wife and his loverDirected by Peter Greenaway. Futurism and dilution of genres long before it was put, forgive the fashionable redundancy. Starting in June, the exhibition will travel through Barcelona, ​​Seville and Palma.

The image of Alber Elbaz played by Dries Van Noten

The image of Alber Elbaz played by Dries Van Noten

A-Z Factory

Paris will be the scene in March, in the great temple of fashion, the Palais Galliera, of the exhibition-tribute to the Franco-Israeli creator Alber Elbaz, who disappeared last year. With the title of love brings love, the sample will be a reproduction of the parade that took place in October and in which 46 designers showed their suits inspired by the couturier’s work. Creator for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Lanvin and later AZ Factory, his own flagship brand, he participated in the fluidity, in this case of materials, shapes and lines that are so in line with current thinking. Also with a sense of humor, collected by the designers who have paid tribute to him and who in many cases start from the caricature self-portrait of Elbaz himself.

Tribute to Alberto Elbaz

Love brings love: 46 designers will present outfits and outfits inspired by the late creator in Paris

We return to London, and to the same stage, the Victoria and Albert Museum. When the men return to the offices, a say, will take over Africa Fashion, or how we have to look down to know what we will wear in an increasingly near future. More than 250 objects, costumes, fabrics, photographs to document creativity on the rise, both in inspiration and in price. The exhibition will analyze a generation of designers and stylists who, as is already happening in art, are beginning to compete for the best-known firms.

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‘Indigo’, 1977, creation of Ghanaian designer Kofi Ansah, who died in 2014

Victoria and Albert

A few kilometers from London, at Windsor Castle, fashion will also make its way: none other than Elizabeth II’s coronation dress. The British sovereign will celebrate the jubilee by showing her fewer and fewer subjects the dress, with her purple cape and all, with which she acceded to the throne will soon be a whopping 70 years. It was a design by Sir Norman Hartnell, with floral emblems representing each of the territories of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, and some nods to the nations that form (or formed) the Commonwealth, by twelve embroiderers who dedicated 3,500 hours to the task. Fashion at the service of power.

In Madrid

In October the exhibition ‘Picasso and Chanel’ will open its doors at the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum

But the great conjunction of art and fashion will take place in autumn in Madrid; specifically, on October 11 it will open its doors at the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum Picasso and Chanel, two names with capital letters from the 20th century. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel collaborated professionally on two occasions, in Antigone and in Sergei Diaghilev’s Russian ballet Le Train Blue; The two had known each other since 1917 and established a long friendship that would last over time and would open the doors of the Picasso circle to the French dressmaker. A meeting that would mark Chanel, who went so far as to say that “it is the artists who have taught me rigor”.

The Thyssen museum will dialogue the work of Picasso with the creations of Chanel

The Thyssen museum will dialogue the work of Picasso with the creations of Chanel

Thyssen Bosnemisza Museum

Four sections will analyze the relationship and mutual influence between both geniuses: Chanel style and cubismor presents the influence of this movement already in the first creations of the seamstress; Olga Picasso He will make some of the portraits that Picasso made of his first wife dialogue with creations by Chanel, of which the first was a faithful client. The Antigone chapter will see sets and masks by Picasso and costumes by Chanel, which coincided in the adaptation of this tragedy by Sophocles, and Le Train Bleu, with which the show concludes, the playbill, illustrated by Picasso, and his collection of sports garments of that season to dress the dancers.

The fashion year will conclude with an extensive Gianni Versace retrospective at the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands. Outfits, accessories, fabrics, drawings, interior designs and filming of men and women from the legendary shows of the creator’s golden years, between 1989 and 1997, will show how the Italian couturier revolutionized not only fashion, but the way of showing it , his commitment to excess, ornate, supermodels, gold, unique pieces and entertainment. All of this is not fluid.

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